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For years, a night out in Sydney meant downing schooners at a huge, street-corner pub before hitting one of the gaudy mega-clubs in Kings Cross.
Now, however, drinkers are turning their backs on raucous pubs and heaving nightclubs in favor of smaller, more intimate watering holes.
Since a change in licensing laws in 2008 made it easier, and far cheaper, for potential proprietors to open so-called “small bars” –- with capacities under 120 and, significantly, no gaming machines -– more than 50 of these pint-sized drinking dens have sprung up across the city.
“Melbourne had always led the way with the small bar movement and, much to Sydney’s disdain, we were never able to do the same thing,” says Chris Lane, who opened the city’s first small bar, the appropriately-named Small Bar, in 2008. “People had been to these other cities and wanted to see the same sort of bars in Sydney. The market was ready for it.”
“We had a history of only having large pubs here in Sydney,” adds Jason Scott, co-owner of three of the city’s most popular small bars, including Shady Pines in Darlinghurst and the Baxter Inn in the city’s central business district.
“We’d never had small, owner-operated bars, which feel more authentic than the large, corporate-owned chains.”
Often hidden in basements and laneways, with little or no signage to distinguish them from their surroundings, these quirky new venues have added some much-needed vigor and vibrancy to Sydney’s bar scene.
“Each one has its own personality and style,” explains James Bradey, owner of Grandma’s Bar.
“They’re a little bit more personable and they’re focusing on quality of service and the experience. While every single one may not appeal to everybody, there’s going to be one or two out there that are exactly what you’re looking for.”
From Western-themed saloons and 1920s-style speakeasies, to kitsch cocktail bars and grungy rock ’n’ roll joints, the small bar trend has seen all manner of venues open their doors.
“Most big pubs all have the same eight beers, whereas smaller operators, who are more enthusiastic about providing a different service, will seek out the little craft boutique beers, so there’s a wider range of products on offer,” says Scott.
“You can see that the owners are showing you something about themselves, so therefore you get more character and passion coming through.”
With new places seemingly opening up each month, the trend shows little sign of slowing down, with Sydneysiders looking to discover the next big thing in small bars.
Baxter Inn
If you can find this American-style drinking den, which is tucked away in a basement at the end of an uninviting alleyway off Clarence Street, you’ll be rewarded with perhaps the best selection of whiskey in the city.
There are more than 300 bottles to choose from, all proudly displayed behind the bar.
The low lighting, jazz soundtrack and exposed brick walls –- all adorned with retro boxing and horseracing paraphernalia -– make this the perfect place to sit back for a dram or two.
Basement, 152-156 Clarence St.; Monday-Saturday, 4 p.m.-1 a.m.; www.thebaxterinn.com
Bulletin Place
Located on a laneway near Circular Quay, this tiny bar opened in December last year and is co-owned by Tim Phillips, who was named World Class Bartender of the Year in 2012.
Cocktails are, unsurprisingly, the stars of the show, with an ever-changing selection –- drinks make use of whatever is in season -– displayed on a roll of paper behind the bar.
The rustic décor, casual atmosphere and exquisite cocktails –- all made by knowledgeable bar staff -– look set to make Bulletin Place a firm favorite with Sydney’s small bar connoisseurs.
10-14 Bulletin Place, 1/F; Monday-Saturday, 4 p.m.-midnight (opens at 6 p.m. on Saturdays); www.bulletinplace.com
Grandma’s Bar
A mounted stag’s head greets drinkers at this longtime favorite, hidden beneath a guitar shop on Clarence Street, before they descend the stairs into a kitschy cavern filled with what the owners describe as “faded granny glamour.”
The extensive cocktail menu includes classics such as daiquiris, margaritas and mai tais, as well as more exotic concoctions from around the world.
The doilies, teacups and patterned wallpaper accentuate the homely feel of this warm and welcoming watering hole.
275 Clarence St. (basement); +61 (0)2 9264 3004; Monday-Saturday, noon-midnight (opens at 5 p.m. on Saturdays); www.grandmasbarsydney.com.au
Mojo Record Bar
If you hadn’t guessed from the framed album covers and vintage tour posters that line the velvet walls –- or the fact that you have to pass through a record store to get in here -– this place is a shrine to all things musical, although it’s slanted more toward Morrison than Mozart.
Australian craft beers dominate the menu, but there’s also a decent selection of cocktails. The bar’s vast record collection ensures that you can enjoy plenty of good tunes.
73 York St. (basement); www.mojorecordbar.com
Uncle Ming’s
After descending the steps from York Street, next to an innocuous looking suit shop, you're transported into what could easily pass for a glamorous 1920s opium den.
Lit with a soft red glow and furnished with retro Oriental décor –- complemented by a whiff of burning incense -- Uncle Ming’s is a world away from most Sydney small bars.
Add in Japanese whiskey, Asian beers and cocktails served in teapots –- plus dumplings to snack on –- and you have a sure-fire winner.
55 York St.; www.unclemings.com.au
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Taylor Swift Hooking Up With Ginger Singer Ed Sheeran?
Has Taylor Swift already landed her next victim boyfriend? It sure sounds like it! The “I Knew You Were Trouble” singer spent the night on February 19 with British singer/songwriter Ed Sheeran! A source revealed that the night before the 2013 Brit Awards, Ed Sheeran, who collaborated with Taylor Swift on her Red album, arrived ...
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Former 'X Factor' contestant tells Mixtape Daily his Deadbeats & Lazy Lyrics is a shoutout of sorts to his father who 'was never around.'
By Rob Markman, with additional reporting by Ade Mangum
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Atlanta rapper Young Scooter will also make an appearance on Wednesday's show, airing at 4p.m. on MTV.com and live on MTV Jams.
By Nadeska Alexis
The-Dream and Mac Miller
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The nagging dread of every parent who books an expensive “activity holiday” is that their child -- particularly if he or she is of the difficult, fussy variety -- arrives at a far-flung destination and ruins the vacation by taking an instant dislike to sailing or climbing or whatever else was promised.
Aside from the obvious parental emotional suffering, such anti-activity behavior can represent thousands of dollars down the drain.
With this in mind, I'd always resisted the pleas of my sporty, but of the difficult, fussy variety, 12-year-old son to take him skiing.
What if he hated it, and we’d be left sitting in a café on a snowy mountain sipping cocoa for a week? While that may be one pretty hot chocolate vista, I can get the same sort effect in hometown, Brighton, minus some snow-capped peaks.
Foremost in my mind were "distant" and frightening skiing holidays in the French Alps, where the sky seemed to be the limit in terms of costs.
Perhaps it was more a question for me, how much do I bank on my son actually enjoying what he says he wants to do?
When my friend Robin suggested my son and I join him and his two boys on a skiing trip to the Czech Republic, I was amazed. My first reaction: "Can you even ski in that country?" I’d certainly never heard of the possibility.
Robin assured me that while Czech ski resorts are tiny compared with those in the Alps or Austria, they’re great for beginners.
The domineering accountant side of me was even more receptive when he explained that the cost of the expedition would be a fraction of what it would be if we were going to the Alps.
Even better, he owns a house near the small ski resort of Bublava in Western Bohemia, so we didn’t have to shell out for accommodation.
Keeping to my life-shaping budget principles, I scored round-trip easyJet flights for two people from London Gatwick to Prague for £150 (US$227). Upon arrival, we hired a Volkswagen Golf estate car, our share of which cost £100. Two five-day lift passes were £85, while ski and boot hire came to £100. I booked ski lessons for my son from an English-speaking instructor, at £24 each; after just two sessions the cocky lad decided he didn’t need any more.
The price for the whole trip, excluding food and drink, was a very reasonable £500 (US$760). I couldn't have been happier.
Also on CNN: Europe's best budget ski resorts
We were, of course, fortunate that we didn’t have to worry about accommodation, yet even if we had stayed in a hotel, it wouldn’t have broken the Bank of Wilkinson: a twin room in an upmarket hotel just a few hundred meters from the ski slope was about £40 (US$60) a night.
Enough about the costs though; the most important aspect was the skiing experience.
Not that planning had anything to do with it, but we timed it right, visiting the Czech Republic during a cold spell. The snow covering was excellent at about 12 to 20 inches. The daytime temperature was about -8C (17 degrees F) which meant the snow remained powdery and there was no ice -- an important consideration, especially for beginners and intermediate skiers such as us.
Given how close it is to the border, Bublava is a small resort popular with German skiers, with just four runs -- a black, two reds and a blue -- as well as a nursery slope.
Even though we visited during school holidays, there were relatively few people around -- a fraction of the numbers you'd expect at more established ski resorts.
This meant the arch-enemy of skiing, the lift queues, were mercifully short.
The surrounding countryside was beautiful and unspoiled and we found the whole experience relaxing.
Czech skiing is a world away from the ostentatious Alps. Everyone was friendly and all levels of ability were accommodated. My son’s instructor was friendly and helpful, despite his limited English.
We enjoyed the skiing, and when we tired of Bublava’s four runs, we drove a few miles to the neighboring resort of Stribrna, which had a beautiful cross-country red run on which we didn’t encounter a single person. (There's also a difficult black run.) Although that excursion cost just a few pounds, it would have been more convenient to incorporate it into the Bublava lift pass.
Several other ski resorts are also within a short drive.
More on CNN: 7 magnificent European ski lodges
If there was one downside to the Czech skiing experience, it was that the food served in the bars and cafés near the slopes was at best average, really little better than the fare you might expect from a roadside café.
Washing it down, another story. Czech beer is excellent in taste and value (just 30 karuna/US$1.50) for a half-liter.
Far from the trauma I feared, Bublava was brilliant and might reshape how I evaluate future activity-based vacations.
I’d have no hesitation about returning to the Czech Republic for skiing, though those planning a ski vacation need to ask what they’re after.
If money isn't the priority, and you want the very best and widest range of skiing and après-ski socializing, then go to the United States, Austria or the Alps.
But if you’re on a tight budget, or want something thoroughly un-flashy and a bit different, consider the Czech Republic.
And for the record, my son loved skiing and quickly developed a “no-fear” approach to descending the slopes. If any of Bublava's skiers were crashed into by a pack of over-confident English boys, I apologize. Be warned, we’ll be back next year!
Bublavais one of the smaller Czech ski resorts. Other main resorts include Spindleruv Mlyn, Bozi Dar and Klinovec.
The nearest airport to Bublava is Prague. Although there are bus services, the easiest way to get there is by renting a car -- it’s a two-hour drive from the airport. Check www.bublava.cz (Czech or German only) or www.svejk-bublava.cz for accommodation options and more information.
The Czech ski season runs from December to early April.
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Not everyone can afford to buy a castle, but that doesn't mean you can't rent one.
At least for a night or two.
Across Europe, many castles have been transformed into hotels.
There are few better places to base yourself while you explore the fairytale city of Carcassonne than Hôtel de la Cité.
It’s the only hotel set inside the ramparts of the UNESCO World Heritage site, and when the throngs of day trippers depart you will have the place almost to yourself.
Enjoy an aperitif on the terrace as the sun sets, taking in the spectacular views, before sitting down to a sumptuous dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant.
Rates: From US$465 a night.
+33 4 6871 9871; www.hoteldelacite.com
Swinton Park is the ancestral home of the Cunliffe-Lister family, and has been transformed into a 30-bedroom luxury castle hotel.
It comes complete with turrets, long echoing corridors and enormous staircases leading up to huge, individually decorated and designed bedrooms.
It’s the kind of place where you expect to bump into Jeeves and Wooster in the dining room. English country living at its finest.
Rates: From £160 (US$260) a night.
+44 (0) 1765 680900; www.swintonpark.co.uk
Also on CNNGo: 15 unusual places to stay a night
Built more than 100 years ago as a summer residence for an eminent German doctor, the Schlosshotel Igls has since served as a base for the German air force during World War II and was then taken over by occupying French and American troops.
Nowadays, the Schloss offers far more luxurious accommodation than was once enjoyed by the military -- it’s now Germany’s smallest five-star hotel and sits in the heart of the Tyrolean mountains five kilometers from Innsbruck.
Rates: From US$231 a night.
+43 512377 217; www.schlosshotel-igls.com
Ashford Castle takes its job seriously, with turrets and ramparts, armour and oak panelling, Waterford chandeliers and rococo gilt mirrors.
Its first stones were laid in 1228 by the de Burgo family, and for eight centuries its inhabitants, including the Guinness family of brewing dynasty fame, have gazed out upon the blue waters of Lough Corrib, Ireland’s second-largest lake.
Today, the castle has 83 bedrooms, a spa, and 140 hectares of wooded parkland.
Rates: From £300 (US$488) a night
+353 94 9546003; www.ashford.ie
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Deep in the rolling Tuscan hills in a delightful village dating back to the 11th century and surrounded by vineyards, sunflower fields and olive groves, lies Castel Porrona.
Each of its 22 rooms offers stunning views of the village, the castle grounds and the sweeping landscape.
In the summer, sit on the flower-bedecked terrace and enjoy a glass of Tuscan wine.
Rates: From US$193 a night
+39 0564 993316; www.castelporrona.it
Dating back to the 12th century, this castle hotel sits high on a hill, offering panoramic views over the Bavarian countryside. Steeped in history, the castle was converted into a hotel back in 1953.
Since then, guests have been able to enjoy the Gothic charm of the building, along with the more contemporary appeal of the cuisine, much of which is reliant on regional produce, including game from the nearby forests.
Rates: From US$257 a night
+49 (0)9604 9390; www.burg-wernberg.de
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What could be more romantic than a castle that was the setting for the legend of Sleeping Beauty, who is said to have slept here for 100 years before Prince Charming's kiss saved her?
You too can fall into a deep slumber here; the 650-year-old castle, set in the heart of the Reinhardswald Forest, has been converted into a dreamy castle-hotel surrounded by a high wall -- said to be the wall of thorns in the Grimms’ fairy tale.
Rates: From US$187 a night
+49 (0) 5671 8080; www.sababurg.de
Within the city walls of Óbidos lies the Pousada di Óbidos, which has been converted into one of the country’s finest hotels -- and one of the first to become a pousada, a traditional or historical Portuguese hotel.
With only nine rooms, the hotel is charming and intimate, though it can be difficult securing a booking, particularly in the summer months. The tower room is particularly popular.
Rates: From US$300 a night
+351 262 955 080;pousadasportugal.com
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You can live out your King Arthur fantasies at Ruthin Castle, situated deep within expansive parkland and woods.
The castle in Denbighshire has a gory history, and comes complete with its own dungeon, whipping pit and drowning pool; but those days are long gone, and the castle is now a romantic hotel that holds regular medieval banquets where you can feast like Henry VIII, who once called this castle his own.
Rates: From £65 (US$107) a night
+44 (0)1824 702664; www.ruthincastle.co.uk
The monks may have long departed, but there is still an air of tranquility surrounding Abbaye de la Bussière. This former monastery, which dates back to the 12th century, is situated in six hectares of beautiful Burgundian parkland.
The interiors include dramatic vaulted ceilings, six-meter high stained glass windows, stone balustrades and a romantic sweeping staircase.
While the Abbaye is unmistakably ecclesiastical in appearance, there’s nothing remotely monastic about the 11 rooms, which are more redolent of an English country house hotel. The food, however, is undoubtedly Gallic.
Rates: From US$250 a night
+33 (0) 3 80 49 02 29; www.abbaye-dela-bussiere.com
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Step back in time at Amberley Castle, which has been hidden away for 900 years near the picturesque village of Amberley in the bucolic South Downs countryside.
Step beneath the portcullis past the 18-meter walls and you will discover landscaped gardens, stunning examples of medieval architecture and an unrivalled atmosphere of peace and tranquility.
The Castle may be steeped in history, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about the quality of accommodation; with 19 luxurious rooms, many with four-poster beds and all featuring whirlpool bathrooms, you will be cosseted like royalty.
Rates: From £230 (US$375) a night
+44 (0) 1798 831 992; www.amberleycastle.co.uk
This magnificent fortified 16th-century tower which stands proud above the fertile farmland of East Lothian offers stunning views over the Firth of Forth.
It once provided refuge to King James VI of Scotland on the run from a rebel army; now it’s been converted into luxurious accommodation for up to 12 guests.
With its dedicated staff, it offers outstanding service and cuisine in a secluded and secure environment --after all, you are staying in a fortified tower with walls that are two meters thick.
Rates: from £150 (US$244) per person a night
+44 (0) 1620 890089; www.fentontower.co.uk
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Château de Bagnols is everything a castle should be, complete with a moat, drawbridge and towers with cruciform arrow holes.
But it’s also a wildly romantic five-star hotel. Its lavish interiors are about as far removed from the clean contemporary lines of your average modern boutique hotel as you can imagine.
The 21 rooms, including eight apartments, are exquisite, all individually decorated and filled with an array of antiques and works of art.
Rates: From £312 (US$508) a night
+33 (0) 4 74 71 40 00; www.bagnols.com
Dubbed the most northerly castle hotel in the world, this is the perfect bolt-hole to woo your lover.
Log fires crackle, stags’ heads adorn the walls, Victorian antiques abound and in the library false bookshelves open onto secret passages -- great for illicit trysts.
The Laird’s bedroom features a magnificent four-poster bed carved with the Balfour family’s coat of arms. And you can even get married in the castle’s tiny chapel, which holds just 20 people.
Rates: From £200 (US$320) a night
+44 1856 711 282; www.balfourcastle.co.uk
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While not strictly a castle, the Witchery is situated in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle’s ramparts, and offers the most romantic accommodation in the city.
With its lavishly indulgent, antique-filled suites secreted within dreamy 16th-century building, guests are swept into an opulent, Gothic fantasy. Oak-paneled walls hang with tapestries, mirrors and carvings, and ornately painted and gilded ceilings pile on the atmosphere.
The Inner Sanctum suite boasts an antique four-poster bed, red and gold walls, and a sitting room with views over the historic Royal Mile.
Rates: From £325 (US$529) a night
+44 0131 225 0973; www.thewitchery.com
First published September 2011, updated February 2013
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